Essaouira

ESSAOUIRA

Essaouira is distinctly different from anywhere else in Morocco. It's a laid back coastal city, renowned for its clear light and cool winds from the Atlantic. Whether it's windsurfing or the city's art galleries or  world music festival that appeal, this small sun-bleached white city has much to offer. Just about the only people not visiting Essaouira are the package tourists.

By Andrea Kirby and Jacques Combeau

Essaouira's unlike anywhere else in Morocco. The town was founded by the Portuguese, and designed by a Frenchman – and the blue Atlantic and powerful alizee wind give it a cool, even bracingly fresh climate. The sound of the wind is everywhere, whispering or roaring, and it carries with it the smell of the sea.

The medina is a typical late eighteenth century French fortified town, like Saint Malo or Saint Jean Pied de Port. It just happens to be in Morocco. But though the rational design, with its two main streets crossing in the middle, is typically French, the flavour of the medina is quintessentially Moroccan.

                  
                'saturated sky blue or lighter, faded turquoise
                                 - a simple palette brought to life
                           by the sun and
                                       the clarity of the light'

White walls gleam in the sunlight; every door, window, shutter is painted in rich blue - saturated sky blue or lighter, faded turquoise; details are picked out in yellow. Just three colours, three simple plain colours, create the entire atmosphere of the place. A simple palette brought to life by the sun and the clarity of the light.

The only touch of red in Essaouira is the town wall. The ramparts, overlooking the reefy blue sea, are a fine place for a walk. In the morning, the fish market sells sardine and bass brought in by the blue-painted boats;  in the evening, sunset  fills the sea with colour, orange or pink or flaming red. On a windy day you'll hear the waves crashing; when it's still, the water mirrors the sunset. Head for one of the beach restaurants to eat fresh fish, squid, or oysters; or try sea urchins, tiny mouthfuls of sweet, salty flesh excavated from the prickly shells.

There are no 'big sights' as such in Essaouira; no great mosques, no huge palaces. The city itself is the sight – a place to wander and soak up the atmosphere. It's a place that invites intimacy rather than awe.

Essaouira tends not to get the package tourists; there's no big draw. Yet it's a town that's friendly to travellers, a place to relax.  You can wander round its streets peacefully unmolested – yet like most seaside resorts it has a sense of fun. It's not exotic, but pretty; it's not a place for manically ticking sights off your list, but a place you want to get to know slowly.

                 'intricate inlays of silver wire or mother-of-pearl
                        are used to create
                             a rich surface decoration'

Seek out the woodworkers and cabinetmakers in the streets of the medina. You can buy inlay work and thuya wood elsewhere in Morocco, but this is where it's always been made. Intricate inlays of silver wire or mother-of-pearl are used to create a rich surface decoration; hours of work can go into a single small piece.

You might also find musical instrument makers here – Essaouira is renowned for its Gnawa world music festival in June, featuring the gnawa brotherhoods with their religious trance dances (you'll need to book early if you want to stay in Essaouira at this time).

While traditional Moroccan crafts can be found everywhere in the medina, the town has also welcomed more modern artists – shopping is a delight whether you're trad or hip. Then head for the hammams for a steam bath and massage – or to Place Moulay Hassan and the Cafe de France for a strong coffee and an hour of people watching.

Essaouira has other attractions too. The strong winds of the Atlantic coast make it a great place for windsurfers –  beginners can learn in Essaouira, though seasoned surfers will probably want to take the bus to Sidi Kaouki, south of the city, for stronger winds and more space. Kite-surfing is another option for the intrepid and sporty which is increasingly on offer.

The town is not really a classic sunbathing style resort – that's more Agadir's thing; beach life is more about just hanging out. Short camel treks along the beach, wandering over the mazy patterns of the sand, walking out to the tumbled blocks of the Borj el Berod ruins – it's not difficult to fill a few days with gentle exploration.


                'take a walk down to the River Ksab to see flamingos,
                            egrets, and various waders'

Bird lovers will also find Essaouira a good base. Take a walk down to the River Ksab to see flamingos, egrets, and various waders. Or listen out for Eleanora's falcons, which breed on the offshore islands, screeching loudly as they fly.

However you fill your day, you'll want to head back to Essaouira for the evening. Take a stroll on the ramparts, or have a glass of mint tea or a cup of coffee in one of the cafes, and watch the sun go down over the Atlantic.

FACT FILE

Getting to Essaouira: Buses from Marrrakech take about 2 ½ hours. You might also consider taking a grand taxi, which gives you more flexibility. There are daily buses to Agadir and Casablanca, both of which have airports – but these buses take longer (3 and 6 hours respectively).

The Ile de Mogador – you'll need a permit from the harbour authority to go out to the islands. Once you've got your permit, you can strike a deal with any of the local boats to take you out. All access is prohibited during the falcons' breeding season in May to August, though).

Getting to Sidi Kaouki – take a number 5 bus, which will take about 40 minutes to get to the beach.